Did you ever have that moment, before you were a mom, when you saw a mom at, oh, say, the grocery store, and she was wearing sweats or yoga pants and you made a mental note (because little did you know) that if you ever had kids you would not be going to the grocery store in your yoga pants? And then later you became a mom and you totally have done that? Yeah. So today I’m going to share a SUPER easy boat neck shirt tutorial.
The idea for this shirt has been brewing ever since the Beachy Boatneck was released, because as soon as that happened I started getting emails about making one in women’s sizes. Well, here it is. Sort of.
This doesn’t take much time from sewing for the kids, and helps look a little more presentable than an old t-shirt and yoga pants, but it’s just as easy to put on. And just as comfy if you use a comfy fabric. Like the Nani Iro Double gauze I used for this one…
Unlike the Beachy Boatneck, this shirt can be made of woven or knit fabric, because the head to shoulder proportion for women doesn’t necessitate the stretch that kids need.
I’ve included a pattern with this tutorial, but it is going to be available for a limited time only, because I’ve decided to grade this to women’s sizes and release it for sale. When I do that I will remove the free pattern. The for purchase pattern will also have the elbow length sleeve option. Interested in possibly testing? Watch the Blank Slate Patterns Facebook page for more information.
So, here’s how you make this. You’ll need the pattern, 1 yard of 60″ wide fabric and some interfacing. While it’s available, you can download the pattern here, for personal use only. This is a women’s size small, for up to a 34″ bust.
Cut out your pieces according to the instructions on the pattern pieces.
This pattern uses 1/2″ seam allowances throughout.
Sew the front and back together at the shoulders, right sides together.
Pin in the sleeves. Do this by pinning the top center to the shoulder seam, then pinning the ends of the sleeve even with the ends of the armhole. After those two points are pinned, ease the sleeve (stretching fabric slightly as necessary) between them, adding more pins.
Stitch. Finish seam using your preferred method. (Need seam finishing ideas? Look here.)
Below left shows the sleeve being pinned, on the right side is the sleeve sewn in.
Once the sleeves are sewn in, fold the shirt and match the sleeve seams so you can sew the side seam and the underarm seam all in one go (red line below).
Fuse interfacing to the wrong side of the facings.
Sew the facings together at the shoulders.
Finish the bottom edge of the facing with an overlock, faux overlock or bias tape.
Pin the facing to the neckline of the shirt, right sides together, matching the shoulder seams. Stitch.
Trim the interfaced fabric seam allowance down to 1/8″, and the non interfaced allowance down to 1/4″. Clip to but not through the stitching line every half inch or so around the neckline.
Press the seam allowance toward the facing, then stitch it down onto the facing. This helps create a smooth neckline that will lay flat.
Press the facing to the inside of the shirt. If desired, you can topstitch around the edge of the neckline to make sure the facing doesn’t flip out.
Turn a hem on the sleeves and the bottom of the shirt by folding up 1/4″ twice. On the inside, particularly on the curves, the hem may have wrinkles, but as long as there are no wrinkles on the outside it is fine.
And then stand up straight like your mama told you to and walk proud into the grocery store! But don’t judge the mamas in yoga pants. Because we’ve all been there and now we know better.