The emails usually start out with some form of, “I’ve been sewing for 30 years…” and then vary in their detail, but the gist is to tell me “that is not the RIGHT way to sew!” I always have to laugh a little at these; first, so they don’t get under my skin, and secondly because I’ve been sewing for 35 years now. People always told me that one day I would enjoy looking younger than my age, ha!
And boy, the meanest ones seem to come from YouTube comments – luckily all those years of working in theatre have helped me develop a thick skin! The thing is, every time I get one of these I am fully aware that the technique I’m showing may not be the most traditional one. And in each case I have a reason for doing things my way.
I asked this question on my Facebook page a while back, “Do you think there’s a ‘right way to sew’? Have you ever been chastised for sewing wrong?” and was really surprised by the amount of discussion it provoked. You can read the comments here.
So here’s my take on the “sewing rules” – and I’m paraphrasing my friend Susan here – If it works, it’s the right way.
Now that may fly in the face of conventional wisdom. And believe me, I’ve met (and been emailed by) the rigid and militant retired Home Ec teacher types that delight in finding mistakes and generally terrorizing students. (Note that I don’t think all Home Ec teachers fit that mold. The one I had in high school, for example, was lovely and we became friends and taught on the same staff when I was a teacher).
But – I taught high school for a dozen years. And I often had reluctant sewing students. Have you ever heard of a dumping ground course? My Intro to Tech Theatre – where I taught sewing – was one of those courses. About half the students had chosen it, and the other half were there because they needed a class that period and the principal felt confident that I could handle behavior issues based on my track record of handling them.
Doesn’t that sound like fun to have 15 students for 90 minutes that were labeled “behavior problems” and didn’t want to be in my class or sew? I’ll tell you a secret – it actually was a lot of fun for me – and them, once I won them over. And I often discovered that all their behavior referrals came from the grumpy militant and close to retirement teacher on the other end of the building.
My goal then – as it is now – was to generate enthusiasm for sewing. And making people seam rip when it is more about aesthetics than function isn’t the way to get reluctant students to love sewing. Yelling at people about how they did something wrong is not nearly as useful as letting them make a mistake and showing them how to fix it.
My approach to teaching is to give the students the information they need to be successful, and then get out of their way. Because of class time constraints, I often skipped the “why” behind things I showed them to do, unless the “why” was safety related or something I knew would come up constantly if I skipped it. For example – always make sure your take up lever is up before you cut the thread was one of my rules – because if you don’t do that, your machine is likely to unthread when you start the next seam.
But then I also read this post where Mary wondered about the “why” behind some sewing techniques, and I realized that I often don’t get into the “whys” on my blog, aside from certain more in depth posts. Again, this is a time constraint thing – I don’t want to make hour long YouTube videos, and I don’t think anyone wants to watch them. Nor do I want paragraphs about the evolution of a technique in a blog tutorial. Plus, as I’ve written before, I think making your own mistakes is one of the best ways to learn.
The two things I have gotten the most comments about are backstitching (or lack thereof) and sewing over pins. Though those are by no means the end of people telling me I’m wrong. So in the spirit of explaining my “whys” here we go.
Backstitching – I backstitch to reinforce things like pockets. That’s it. I never taught my students to backstitch at the beginning or ends of seams for the following reasons:
- Unless you have a too long stitch length or incorrect tension, it is unlikely that your stitches will come out, particularly if this seam will be crossed by another line of stitching, as most interior seams are.
- Backstitching near seam edges makes it more likely that fabric will get sucked into the throat plate or get a thread nest behind the stitching, and these issues are harder to repair and more likely to happen to a beginning sewer than the likelihood that an unbackstitched seam will come unsewn.
In addition to my reasons, this post has some great information on couture sewing and backstitching.
Sewing over pins. This one I never got comments on until I started doing videos and people could see me doing it. So now you know – if I use pins, I sew over them. Here’s my thinking on this:
- As I explained in this post, I try not to pin unless I need to, and use as few pins as possible so I can sew as quickly as possible. When sewing is your job, time matters.
- When I do pin, it is usually because I am sewing a tricky area, and keeping the pins holding things together is more important than the chance I might hit a pin with a needle.
- I’ve done a rough statistical analysis based on my own decades of sewing and know that the likelihood of hitting a pin is not worth the time it takes to stop and remove them FOR ME. I did always tell my beginning sewers to stop and remove pins because a) it slowed them down, which helped their precision in the beginning and b) I didn’t’ trust them to pin perpendicularly and carefully. However, I let my second year students choose their own method.
So, there you have it – as far as I’m concerned, the RIGHT way to sew is the way that works. And by works I mean – is the end customer satisfied with the result? Does the item function as intended and look pleasing enough to the user? Then it’s right, no matter what someone else tries to tell you. This is sewing, not neurosurgery.
For everything else remember that there’s a helpful way to share, (i.e. I prefer this technique because…) and that generally speaking, you probably shouldn’t tell someone they’re sewing the wrong way unless they ask you or are putting their safety at high risk (sewing with a sparking foot pedal and exposed wires, for example).
What do you think? Are there hard and fast rules (besides safety) that should never be broken? Has someone ever told you that you were sewing wrong?
Rachel
Good post! I think it’s really interesting especially with the varied ways that people learn to sew these days. I actually am less bothered by “incorrect” technique when I can tell the sewer knows what’s up and has their own plan, because I learned early and after 20 years I do that too. I have, however, seen some aggressive social media arguments attacking people for using proper technique. The one rather post that sticks with me a children’s pattern maker was being handed their hide for setting a sleeve- didn’t she even know how to sew a sleeve? The poster and a surprising number of supports insisting that flat sleeve construction was the only “proper” way to set a sleeve. For me (while I support and totally do it) that is the “cheat”. YouTube can be brutal, I never fault anyone for turning off the comments there 🙂 Thanks for sharing your sewing!
Inspinration
A very nice post again! I would be curious to know your position about direction of closures. In the Netherlands there recently was a tv show on sewing and one of the judges, the one judging sewing techniques disqualified projects if they used a wrong directional closure male versus female. Would you make a big issue out of that for your students? I also sometimes see it one Facebook, people really feeling bad that they made trousers for their child that close “incorrectly) I feel that those are “old” school concerns, but I am a newby 😉
Melissa Mora
I do pay attention in terms of button front shirts/dresses/etc and point that out in my patterns, but I wouldn’t harangue someone who did it differently – after all, it functions either way. I don’t, however, change the direction of zipper fly closures, because in my opinion fly zips were developed for men and co-opted by women’s fashion, and therefore should always open the same way.
Pam Erny
Melissa, When I was doing my 7-year Tailoring apprenticeship (100 years ago, LOL),,,my mentor (a couturier from Milan) would *not* allow a fly-front zipper on a womens garment (it went in at the slant-front pocket, at the side seam or the back). But that was his shop, and while there I had to follow his rules.
But now? LOL I make all fly fronts open the same as you do for exactly the same reason. My mentor would have had a fit…..but…..they are my garments now, not his 😉
Ann
One of the pleasures I derive from sewing is finding out new techniques or watching my topstitching improve over the years or whatever, so I do like knowing the ‘right’ – or really, the classic – way of sewing things. It’s sometimes annoying to be entirely self-taught because I don’t have the benefit of having had a lot of techniques explained to me to know why one type of seam finish, for example, might be preferred over another. Because I have to rely on a lot of reading, internet tutorials, and experience, this can be a very slow learning process. However, though I’ve been sewing for much of my life, I really only started sewing as a serious hobby after my little boy was born five years ago. Baby sewing is a relatively small investment of time and materials and I needed that to figure things out, to make a lot of mistakes, and to work through the biggest learning curve by mucking around. Working through a lot of little projects was very useful to me as a learner.
Roseana Auten
I’ve NOT sewn over pins, and I’ve sewn over them. Sewing over pins isn’t really worth it to me, but as you’ve said, I use fewer pins than I ever did before. I think new sewists should be discouraged from doing it. They don’t have enough experience to know whether they’re going to hit the pin or not. As for the old guard, well, it’s not unusual as we get older to feel unappreciated for our greater experience, deeper knowledge, and willingness to adhere to an “orthodoxy.” On the other hand, there’s a hip and popular sewing blog I follow and more often than not my always-silent reaction to their sewing tips is, “Um, well, that’s a little old school, there’s a little bit better way of doing that, might wanna update your knowledge.” That being said, I think I’m glad there are a lot of retired home ec teachers and I’m looking forward to undoing some of the psychic harm they have done.
Laura J.
I agree with this approach. I sewed over pins when I was a beginner and broke needles right and left. My mom (a stickler for ALL THE RULES, even the ones that don’ t make any sense) scolded me about it, so I stopped and didn’t break needles anymore. Then I realized that a favorite blogger of mine sews over pins in her videos and I was totally aghast!!! I thought she was a fraud! But I have more recently done it myself here and there, for sake of precision when the pins are holding a dart or a tricky spot, and have not broken anything recently (knock on wood). So I do believe it’s a matter of experience and I guess just learning to know what your machine is going to do.
Roseana Auten
A little story: Sandra Betzina says in the 70s she apprenticed with a French couture maker, who was very exacting. (After all, clients paid a premium.) She showed a pants seam to Madame. Madame said, “I will show you something,” and proceeded to easily rip the seam out by hand (no seam ripper). “You have sewed over the pins,” Madame said. “You make the stitches too loose when you do that and I have no trouble breaking them. Now, do it again and do not sew over my pins.” So . . . Sandra never sewed over pins again, and still doesn’t. This is just a story, not a directive. Take what you will from it! 🙂 It sort of amuses me . . .
Michelle jadaa
I started a free sewing group in my home,you should hear the giggles and laughter.See the pride on these ladies faces when they create something.I dont teach ,if someone asks i help,i give tips etc.For me sewing is a joy that ive had since i was a child and thats what i want to share.
Roseana Auten
Awesome. Exactly.
Angela
I totally agree with you. In fact, you’ve helped me realize why I have been dragging my feet about giving lessons to my friend’s daughter. Its because the girl’s late grandma and 2 aunts are super old school and I’m afraid they will criticize my more free ways. But now I also realize that is why she is asking me and not them to teach her daughter. Aha.I have a phone call to make.
Mary Danielson Perry
Such a thoughtful, interesting post, Melissa! I confess that my incessant curiosity about the “why” doesn’t just apply to sewing. Being taught anything, without knowing the underlying philosophy, just drives me crazy! I was the student in high school Spanish class that got ridiculously excited, when we stopped learning phrases and started learning grammar, instead. My mind craves the whole picture of subject, so that I can start finding patterns and connecting my own mental dots. Academia is definitely the right place for me, it seems! Realistically though, we’ve shown time and again, that most people don’t learn this way. Too much information does, indeed, overwhelm people. There’s a reason that Rosetta Stone style software is the most successful way for most people to learn a language–conversational approaches to things, putting knowledge together a little bit at a time, just works really well for the human brain.
Also, I completely agree that there is no “right way” to sew. Or, quite frankly, to do anything. We all have a million different methods that work for us. That’s one of the reasons the America’s Test Sewing Room idea appeals to me so much, actually. All too often we hear that there IS one right way to sew, without any reason or support. If there is a right way, I want evidence and tests! Otherwise, I’m going to experiment on my own, just to find out the truth. Trial-and-error is much more fun than blindly following rules anyhow! 😀
Peggy
This entry for me explains exactly why I got excited to sew again, after reading your blog. You were more interested in keeping us sewing than trying to teach proper technique. I too learned to sew many years ago from my Nonni, who worked many years to support her family in the city sweatshops. Your technique reminded me of hers. She wanted me to learn and love sewing, which I did. Over the years, with young kids I didn’t have time to sew. Now there are times where learning proper technique is important, but not for daily blogs or You Tube videos. Thanks for sharing all you know about my beloved hobby!
CJ
An acquaintance at church recently took a quilting class from a ‘professional’ that lives close to her. Fine and dandy now we have something in common and can share our enthusiasm for fabric and pretty quilts. She comes to ME to ask a million questions about this or that as she doesn’t want to bother the ‘professional’ with when she is not available in her shop. Okayyyyyyyyyyy…so then when she asks me a particular question about borders and binding and I tell her how I do those steps she then proceeds to tell me her teachers said OH NO! You can’t do it THAT way!!! Fun stuff!
Amy Mayen
In response to Rachel’s comment above, I remember the great sleeve debacle. I always sew sleeves, then side seams because I’m lazy and it works. I cheat any chance I get. But this lady was getting reamed for sewing the “correct” way. (At least, it’s the way couture garments are sewn.) I agree with your post 100%, if it works, it’s right. Why suck all the fun out of sewing, especially when most my generation are self taught. We are in a sort of sewing rennasaince right now. Learning new techniques and digital stuff, while rediscovering older techniques that are awesome too. Everybody, drink some hater-aide. Great post!
Sue
If the only sewing experience I had was in my 7th grade sewing class I would never have picked up a needle again in my life…
fortunately my mother and sisters sewed and they had been helping me learn to sew since I was 5 years old. I love your blog and
even though I have been sewing over 50 years for myself and children, grandchildren and dolls, I pick up tips from your blog that
help me see an easier way or a new method for doing things and I am grateful for your willingness to share.
Elizabeth Farr
Well said, Melissa! As the saying goes, there’s more than one way to skin a cat. Everybody has a unique way of solving the same problem. I hand baste often even though I know it’s not as fast as other methods because I started sewing as a child by hand and it’s an excuse to bust out the needle and thread and also because I like the level of control it can offer me. Someone else might use a million pins where I’d hand baste. Which is right? Who cares? They both get the job done and everyone had a good time while they were using their own method.
Carole
Indeed WELL SAID Melissa honestly some people! Why would they want to go on your site just to critise. You are doing an excellent job for me and many more people like me who are only too happy to to recive your help and to share in your expertise. Please keep up the good work, and many thanks for all your tips as you say sewing is about fun and being able to create something in which we are proud of however we get their depends on choice and built up personal preferences. I wonder how many people including the critics and those who thrive on negative comments actually drive the way they were taught just saying…,
Regards
Carole
Melissa Mora
Hahaha! Now I’m imagining bad drivers yelling at everyone else on the road!
Cynthia Ernst
Great philosophy! Sewing should be about self expression and fun! This is the way to bring in young and old to enjoy the craft.
Diana G
I agree with so many of the comments..I too was taught how to sew by my Mother and Grandmother to make my own doll clothes, then clothes. I stopped for a while in high school, then when my first daughter was born; I took it up again. I still make garments, quilts, anything involved with sewing. I am teaching my granddaughters how to sew, and so glad they are taking to it. I use quotes from movies to teach them (It breaks the tension -no pun intended LOL).
I had been told my sister in law (whom by the way has no sewing experience but knows it all), that I sew wrong. I just laughed,walked away and just ignore her and her comments when it comes to anything to do with my hobby. I am not going to tell you what thoughts were going through my mind !LOL
Patty
The people following you are doing it because they choose to. They are getting free patterns, free instructions, free tutorials! Why they continue to complain and/or question your expertise has me baffled. If they aren’t happy, they should move on to watch someone else’s suggestions. Maybe they just feel like pushing their own opinions. Regardless, I’m glad you don’t let them get to you. I appreciate your hard work as well as the enthusiasm you show. Blessings to you, Melissa. Keep up the great work.
Emily
Honestly, I didn’t know there was a debate about this. I didn’t even know there was a “right” way. I’m in the process of teaching myself to sew since I have a baby girl on the way and my “right way” is: If I like the end result, and it survives the wash…it’s done! I really appreciate your blog. For a self taught beginner like myself, it’s such a blessing! Thank you!!
Pam Erny
I think sewing “the right way” evolves as each of us gains experience. We learn what works and what doesn’t with each new pattern and each new fabric that we use. We quickly learn that the techniques we used on a denim garment aren’t quite right for the chiffon blouse we currently have under the presser foot. I have purchased some of your patterns, and sometimes I sew them differently than you do….that just makes us individuals….not rivals for the “Right-Way Award” LOL
That said, I am a profesional shirt-maker and in my shop I *must* have a set of so-called “right ways” (aka Standard Work Methods)…so that when one of our clients orders a certain style of shirt, it looks like the previous one he has purchased (inside and out). It’s the same with the line of sewing Interfacing that I have manufactured….there must be strict consistency.
However, when sewing my own garments..I enjoy the freedom I have to break the so-called “rules. Sewing is my joy and recreation….I’m not going to let anything get in the way of my creative fun! One last thought— if one of my sewing friends says something like, “Wow Pam, what an absolutely gorgeous shirt….. but….What the H*LL???!!! You put the collar on THAT way????!!”. I just smile….. and choose to think of such comments as “envy” rather than “criticism” <<>>>
Pam Erny
Good Gracious! …forgive my spelling mistakes, please!
Lana
Thank you for this post. I agree entirely with all you said above. Militant one-way-is-right ladies don’t inspire anyone. Just as you said, I prefer figuring out things for myself, and my mistakes taught me more than any tutorials (or my sewing classes in high school, for that matter). It’s important to just keep sewing, instead of getting discouraged when things are not “perfect” (my biggest problem with, ha, everything!) and so now I am working on just that – to keep going, and leave my own criticism behind. Your post has been truly soothing, inspirational and exactly what I needed to hear. So, once again, thank you, and hug you! Your fan, Lana.
Debra Denman
I had to reply because this is an excellent post. I totally agree, “the RIGHT way to sew is the way that works.” In fact, that was the first thought that entered my mind, when I read your headline. I too often hear people commenting that I look considerably younger than my age 😀 . Nevertheless, I’ve spent almost my entire life (more than 40 years, since I’m now 57) learning the “correct” sewing techniques — that never ending and ever fascinating journey of research and practice. But if one wanted to get really technical, and be a real purist, the only ‘right’ (i.e. traditional) way to sew would be every detail done by hand (and no zippers, either). Some would go so far as to say, no scissors either! But of course that isn’t practical anymore. And so, I very much appreciate hearing about any new or different techniques which might result in beautifully fitting, longer-wearing garments! Thanks for sharing, Melly! (Oh by the way, my most important internet rule for me is that I’m not obliged to take anonymous mean people very seriously. Sometimes I feel just a little bit sorry for them, though.)
Deborah J.
Hey Melissa, nice article! Sewers are funny people, aren’t we? As regards the pin thing, I’ve sewn over pins and had the needle break narrowly missing my eye. BUT it certainly has not stopped me from sewing over pins when necessary! For the sake of accuracy it’s sometimes necessary to stitch over pins. I just go a little slower. Like you said, what ever works! I’m sorry you’ve encountered sewing snobs in your work. There are a lot of stinkers in this world! Keep up the great work! I enjoy your website very much!
D
Trouble OHara
Wonderful article and I agree, the right way to sew is whatever way works best for you. Still being a beginner, I take things slow and stop to remove my pins when I sew. My end justifies my means. Thank you for supporting this viewpoint.
Pennyp
I think we should copy/paste all the comments from here and email them to the “hater”!!! Obviously they are very insecure and believe that putting you down will lift them up. Except they are wrong. That one negative comment has now generated hundreds of positive comments! Comments lifting YOU up and putting THEM down!
Thank you for being exactly who you are and doing things exactly as YOU do them and for so generously sharing YOU with us!!!!
DON’T CHANGE A THING!!!! 😉
Melissa Mora
Thanks! My intent with this post wasn’t to put my personal haters down at all – like I wrote, I’m thick skinned. But I just think negativity in this case isn’t useful, and I hope everyone commenting here is just as good at lifting up each other as they have been in showing me love.
Amanda
The fact that so many more people are sewing and loving it is more important to me than whether or not they are doing it the “right” way. I think if a seamstress was selling her wares, advertised as heirloom quality and had all exposed seams and loads of shortcuts…then maybe that is a valid conservation. But being legalistic because they are bored and have nothing better to do is just silly. I learned how to figure out shortcuts from my grandmother, who was traditionally trained by her mother. I marveled at how she could figure out the quick and easy way to finish a huge project by using little shortcuts here and there. Now that I have been sewing consisting for 10 years, I can do the same thing. It makes me feel like a rock star, not a cheater.
Ginger
Melissa, This is a great post! I’ve been sewing for as long as you have. I agree the right way is whatever way works best for you. I quit reading a blog by a self-proclaimed professional after she wrote several horrible posts picking on newcomers or pattern designers. If she didn’t like the way someone does something then don’t associate yourself with them. But writing mean blog posts was just wrong.
Lisa
I am always amazed by all the trouble people like you go to in order to post interesting content and I would never dream of leaving a nasty comment after viewing it!
I see blogs and books as a source of inspiration, sewing is my hobby, no way am I going to put pressure on myself to do things the ‘proper’ way if I prefer another technique.
This reminds me of when my son was still a baby and I would chuckle at how contradictory advice from experts could be about things like routine and sleeping. I just ended up doing what worked for me!
Jessica
THIS! I love the lighthearted nature of this and that you’re embracing all types of sewists. That’s why we love you, Melissa! I will say that there are certain things that are must haves when sewing for a boutique, for clothes that aren’t just for your kids, although I try to make sure the stuff for my kids does like high quality. Other than that, if it gets the job done and is work that will last washings and wear and tear, who cares how you got there? And I love the part about only offering your opinion if you are asked. Most of the time it comes across snarky and snooty and the commenter doesn’t have the relationship with whoever they’re critiquing to be allowed to give that unsolicited advice.
Trayne
Glad to read that someone else runs over their pins… I too am a theatre person, been doing costumes for 45 yrs, just retired.
I needed to get X amount of costumes done in a short period of time. If I pin then you can bet I am going to sew over them.
Also, didn’t know that there is a right or wrong way to do it…only time I complain is when raw seams are left to the open , I do believe seams need to be finished… Other than that… what ever it takes to get it made.
Maureen Stephan
What a great post . . . I work at a small fabric shop in Kansas, and I’m going to share your blog with EVERYONE! 🙂
I hate it when people are so rigid about the “right way” to do things, especially sewing – I love hearing from other sewers their sewing/quilting tips and tricks.
Looking forward to reading more from you!
anne
I agree on that the right way is the way it works for you. My mom was watching me pin a garment the other day. She was surprised. ‘When I was younger I learned to pin in another way, but This looks much easier’,she said. So the modern way somethimes wins 🙂
CM
Whether you follow “the rules” or not depends on what and why you are sewing.
Personally I think there are some methods and techniques that are better than others and by better I mean they give a cleaner, neater, more comfortable, professional finish. Then there are some techniques that might be described as quick and dirty. Which you choose depends on your purpose and what makes you happy. Sewing should be a pleasure not a chore.
However, if you are teaching or you are designing and selling PDF patterns I believe you should have a good knowledge and understanding of a variety of methods and techniques so you are confident and capable of sharing these with your students or customers so they can decide what works best for them.
knitbunnie
Do you like what you’ve sewn? If the answer is “yes”, you’re doing it right! My only rule, hard and fast, for anyone sewing in my sewing room is on pin – Don’t serge over a pin! Other than that, do what you want. Personally, I am an extremely picky seamstress – I don’t sew over pins, I baste the crap out of things, I press between every single step, and I still hear my home ec. teacher’s voice in my head, telling me how to do it “right”. If I could shut her up, maybe I’d sew faster! I am so slow 🙁
Carol
Thank you for this post as being a newbie to sewing your post has given me more confidence.
amy brice
Good food for thought. Who determines what the RIGHT way is anyways? And if we all were to only sew this RIGHT way as a standard then there wouldn’t be room for any evolution of sewing techniques. I do however see the value as a beginner sewer to learn standard techniques, and then once mastered evolving them to function for your own sewing style.
Kerrie Erb
This was fun to read. I recently stopped backstitching for everything for the very reason that was mentioned….sometimes I do, but with all the clothes I am making lately, I stopped when there is a cross seam. (saves time 😉 and puckering if I’m too close to the edge.)
Sometimes, if I do want to anchor it. I will sew, backstitch an inch in, then continue…so the backstitch is not at the edge…..but not often.
Sewing over pins. Ugh, I broke needles when I tried it. But a year or two ago I started using clips, rarely pins anymore. But, on occasion I will yank them as I approach.
Actually, I often don’t clip or pin. I like the freedom of being pinless! LOL
Even pinning the ‘right’ way, fabric can crinkle so going without pins forces me to ease the seam. I can feel the fabric, instead of being poked by pins!
If I have pins, I get too anxious and try to zip along. That can be disastrous!! Patience is key!
Laurel Jeris
Melissa, your approach is what’s keeping me going as I relearn to sew. Fifty years ago, in high school, I took some terrific classes in sewing, tailoring and pattern drafting – all my teachers were exacting, but nurturing at the same time. I made some great clothes and continued to sew for another 10 years but life got in the way and I just didn’t find it relaxing at all.
Now with a grand daughter, I’m having such fun with it. I missed all the years of learning to sew with knits – your tutorials on the T-shirt and putting on rib knit cuffs were amazing. The order you recommend for constructing a garment makes perfect sense (once I’ve done it), although it differs a bit from what I recall.
I’m also basting frequently – things just turn out better that way for me but I’m just getting the feel of handling different fabrics again so maybe I’ll be able to do less of that as time goes on.
You are a terrific educator – immersed in practice with the gift of being able to explain your work and demonstrate your techniques.
Thanks so much!
Patricia Collier
I can’t believe people can be so petty. Obviously they have time on their hands. If I read about a different way of doing things I’m happy to give it a try. After all, if it saves me time and makes life easier, what’s the problem? Sewing over pins won’t affect the end result…oh unless you forget to remove them!
catherine courtney
Finally someone who loves to sew and not nit pick! I love to sew and it wasn’t because of a home economic class because I don’t remember much from that too many years LOL. I will use a pattern or make up my own and if I get stuck I just wing it and usually
it comes out ok for me. No one fussed it didn’t look nice on. Now to find that stitch ripper.
Freida
just found your site. Like it. This was good info about back stitching & sewing over pins. My mother taught me to do both but I am rethinking the back stitching given your perspective. Thanks!
Samantha
Thank you so much for this post! I am a beginner at sewing and kept getting so intimidated by different people’s blogs about what to do and not to do. So many different ways of sewing one pattern that I was confused if I was even doing it “right”. This helped a lot!! 🙂
Lori Smith
Love, Love, LOVE this post! If I had listened to “conventional wisdom” on sewing I would have never learned to sew! After 40+ years of sewing, I’ve learned a lot (but there’s still SO much more to learn). Thanks for putting it all into perspective!
Jen in Oz
I work at a school, in admin, but some years ago a call went out for someone to help out the teacher who was working with 15-17 year old girls taking “fashion design” with their sewing (they needed someone who knew how to sew). I put up my hand, and got a few extra hours of work per week with this job.
(I was quite surprised that some of the girls in the class didn’t even have the basics of how to use a sewing machine, especially as I joined the class half-way through the year, but I suppose they thought that studying fashion design would have to do more with drawing pretty pictures than actually MAKING the designs they came up with.)
After a few months though, I was advised that I wouldn’t be required the following term. Because I pinned my fabric the wrong way. I had always been taught to pin perpendicular to the seamline. I almost always sewed over the pins, figuring that if they bent from being hit with the needle, they were cheap enough to replace. But apparently this was wrong, and I should have been pinning parallel to or even ON the actual seamline, and removing them as I came to them.
Oh well. I didn’t really enjoy it much; too much yelling out at girls to “put the foot down” meaning the presser foot, NOT the foot pedal, as they started to sew!
Ev R
As a sewing teacher of children and teens, I believe the best invention (for a sewing teacher’s sanity) has been the sewing machine that will NOT sew unless the presser foot has been lowered,. These are usually those with some computerized technology. Even the relatively inexpensive CS6000i from Brother has this feature. In my experience, sewing machine manufacturers do not include this feature in their written descriptions, so you have to “try before you buy”.
Dara
I just read this post! Thanks SEW MUCH for them ! We are so blessed to have people like you share your sewing experience s and FREE tutorials with us! We appreciate you so very much! Have a great day!☺☺☺
Susan
Nice post. I too, have given up back stitching unless needed for strength. But I have to disagree with you about sewing over pins. I used to do that all the time, However, after the second time I hit a pin and had the needle break into three pieces and the middle piece flying and hitting me in the glasses. I do not do this. Thank goodness I wear glasses!
Barbara Showell
So funny! I was looking at an online tutorial two nights ago thinking, she’s not doing it right! And almost left a comment directing her to one of YOUR tutorials. I stopped myself. The technique was definitely a cheater with less than professional results, but again, if it gets the job done so people have success they can certainly try for a “better” approach next time. I love your love of sewing and teaching. And your singer 401 🙂
Cucicucicoo: Eco Sewing and Crafting
I love this article! I do this to myself so often, thinking that because I never took “real” or “official” sewing classes, that I sometimes don’t know the right way to sew. Deep down I know that it isn’t true, but it’s great to hear it coming from someone else, too! Long live unorthodox ways of sewing! 🙂 Lisa
Amanda
Yes – Thank you! I’m all about making mistakes, then fixing them, then coming up with a way that works better. I have also stopped back stitching (as much) and have had no problems. Thanks for this article and all your other wonderful posts! You are one of my go-to blogs for sewing advice.
Kick Butt Mamma
I have never worried about pins. My first machine, an Athena 2000, bought in 1978, actually stated in the instruction manual that with this machine, sewing over pins was not a concern. I have sewn with it ever since and never even came close to snagging a pin. I don’t know why they had such confidence that it wouldn’t snag a pin. Now when using other machines, I do generally but not always remove pins. I generally only use pins for matching plaids, stripes, or other repetitive patterns — things that take some precision. I do like a good clean plaid match. As far as the dos and the don’ts, I look more at the outcome of the project. When my kids were babies, I would watch “Sewing with Nancy” and loved to pick up unorthodox ways of making collars with good clean points for instance. It was a new technique to me. This would “Wow” me. I picked up additional unorthodox techniques in Stretch & Sew classes. What a great time to learn new techniques. Safety and outcome are my criteria. I have to laugh thinking back to my Home Ec days. I won lots of fair ribbons on products I made with the way my Mom taught me and not nearly so many with what I made in Home Ec. It was a purely wasted class for me because my Mom had, what I believe, were much better sewing habits, which she passed on to me. taking the other classes (before the age of YouTube) simply broadened my horizon and exposure. I loved to sew alongside my Mom.
Personally I am a picky sewer. As for my students (I’m not a trained educator), our focus was on fun and general outcome. It was great to celebrate a good looking outcome. One of the biggest things I would tell my students was that clean pressing was probably more important than a perfectly straight stitch. Bad pressing would look bad, but a great pressing job made everything great. For anything I make, I press once, when I make it as I make it. I press as I go. this philosophy works reliably for me.
As far as back stitching it depends upon the fabric and where in the product it is. For instance, I still hand tie the points of darts. On most 5/8″ seams I don’t find it necessary for many of the reasons you state.
Peggy Flowers
My ex-husband took great pains in showing me the “right” way to do almost everything. Notice that I said, “ex-husband.” LOL
Wanda
I have been sewing for nearly 60 years. My mother put me to work making my own doll clothes when I was about 9 using the scraps of trims we sent for with Coats and Clark labels. My Mom was learning by trial and error and pattern instructions and I did as well. I was making my own clothes by the time I hit Home Ec and being the insensitive kid I was, i argued with the teacher resulting in having to pin along all the stitch lines of my pattern (ruining it of course) then marking the lines with pencil. I was the only student who had to do this. So I was not a big fan of Home Ec. I have sewn over pins without breaking too many needles and I have not back stitched every seam and the garments held up. I have even turned the screw on my old Singer’s bobbin case and managed to get the correction I wanted. However, I continue to look for better ways of doing things and love finding sites like yours. If I had access to the internet when I was a teen, life would have been very different.
Ronnie Miriam Friedman
Thank you for sharing all perspectives on this subject. I started sewing in 7th Grade, Ms Joyce was the teacher. I barely remember the lessons, but I am still sewing 57 years later. Mostly little projects, but what I love is to experiment. I make Halloween costumes, baby items, blankets, pillows with piping (new for me) and what I realize is that you can watch a mllion YouTube videos, and come up with your own version of how it is executed. I also had a Danish Lady who taught me some European (French seams) techniques and to this day I still remember her lessons. Sewing is somewhat of a lost art, my mother never sewed,and grandmothers never sewed, so I guess I am somewhat self taught. Kudos for trying, and although my machine is older, it still does the job, which is what is important. I do wish I had the need for a fancier machine, just cannot justify the price. I have broken my share of needles, I sew over pins, but it works for me. One technique that is new for me is using blue tape to tape down a zipper. Perfect installation, much better than basting or pins, and I saw it on YouTube!
Emma
I’m a beginner to sewing having been doing it now for about 2 months during the intense period of lockdown and I just had to comment to say thank you for this refreshing take on things!
I am completely self taught, using online tutorials, YouTube videos, and mostly best guess and at times I’ve been more concerned with if I’m doing it the right way than if I’m learning and getting better with how things look and feel as I progress. Its really great to realise that there isn’t necessarily a right way but more what works for me and my machine.
Sorry I’m so late to this (2020 vs 2015) 😀
littleleftie
Hi Melly—After sewing since I was in grade 6, taking a course thru Singer at the local store because my Mother wanted me to learn “the right way”, I don’t do anything the way that I was taught. lol Mom sewed beautiful clothing for my siblings and me, plus some incredible Barbie clothes. She was my inspiration to learn to sew. I am 64 and still sewing and still doing things my way. ……right for me, not necessarily “right”. Your videos are great and I enjoying watching them. Trolls on the internet are such a downer! It’s alot easier for them to bite at you than for them to make their own videos of “the correct way”. Ignore them and carry on!!
Brenda
Miss Stone (name fits and maybe that was why she was Miss) in 7th grade. Still remember her so well 50 years later. She made me redo everything three or four times. By the time it was “finished” it was only fit to be cut up for Barbie clothes—that I had been sewing by myself after making the patterns. She turned me off all Home Ec classes and any other instructional classes that only had a right way!
Colleen Hartlen
I have been an avid sewist for almost 70 years and the one firm rule which I follow
is to PRESS AS YOU GO. I feel that well pressed seams can make up for lack of technique.
John Carlton
I read that Harpo Marx taught himself to play the harp. Years after he was successful and well known, he decided to take formal harp lessons. The teacher had the wisdom to realize that he would have to unlearn all the “wrong” things he was doing, and that it would not lead to the success he had playing his own style.
Your June 18, 2021 email about using Stitch Witchery when pins weren’t working set off a storm of ideas in my head. I have had a taboo in place about that stuff since I worked in a costume shop in upstate New York. They rightly are against it, since they professionally alter the costumes for each rental…alterations that need to be undone with each further rental without damaging the fabric.
But as a hidden inside trick to hold the parts together long enough to do the proper stitching…especially if it is on stuff I build for myself??? Brilliant!!!
And there are electrical technicians out there who just want to slap me silly when they see the way I solder circuit boards. But my stuff works…and they hardly ever catch fire.
Mary
I’ve been sewing for over 70:years. I was 2 the first time I sewed. One of Grandma’s projects was under the needle when I sat on the foot piece of her treadle machine and happily rocked away! No, she wasn’t happy. At 7 I bought my first machine from Wards on time payments -$5 a month- with my egg money. I’ve always sewed over pins when easing things like sleeves. However, technology has caught up for most pinning. I love the little clippies from Joann’s. They hold things so well and are a lot easier to use with stiff fingers than pins. I put a little box behind my machine and just flick them into it as I remove them. I also love the info you share. I don’t sew clothes anymore because pre-made is so inexpensive on sale for everyday wear. But many of your ideas work nicely on other projects.
Lisa M
OMG! I follow along with quite a few sewing & quilting sites. It is amazing of all the things people “do wrong.” I think part of that comes from not looking a person in the eye when you are dishing out criticism. Would you speak to someone like that to your face? Of course, there are some that would, but most would try more to help instead of criticizing. “If that didn’t work, try this . . .” type of comment instead. I am going to embrace your “if it works, it’s the right way.” Thank you!
pattyp
Thanks so much for saying this. All we need is some Karen (apologies to any named Karen!) to come along and tell us we are doing everything “all wrong”. As long as one gets the desired end products that has all the qualities desired, anything in nay activity or work is valid. We’ve had them tell use we were wrong, in any and very aspect of our life.
Sometimes sewing over pins is the best way to keep motifs in the fabric lined up, but I confess I do it all the time, I do check my needle if I hit one. I tend to use long slender silk pins and the needle tends not to make a direct hit. I see you use fairly thin pins, if those are yours in the photo.
Back stitiching is something I’d never even heard of until I’d been sewing a few years. Having had two seams come apart, I started doing it all the time, But guess what? The reverse stopped working on my machine during the pandemic and I survived without it.
Helen
I have been a self taught dressmaker and for about 50 years I have discovered a different way of doing things on a weekly basis. Some demonstrators make me hold my breath but I believe we all evolve on our journey by making mistakes, learning from others, watching Youtube and reading articles and blogs. Things might or might not work for us but its not wrong for someone to sew a different way. On the topic of sewing over pins….. I was always a sew over them kind of girl until about 18 months ago when a friend had an unfortunate but fixable accident when her needle took a direct hit. Now I have adapted my use of pins and just take care. However I personally have never broken a machine needle even if the pin has bent a bit. It is absolutely for each sewer to find their own way. I love learning new techniques and short cuts from all sewers. There is always something to learn.
Ellie
I totally agree with you. I always say if something works for you and it’s safe, then it’s a right way… there’s not only ONE right way.
Also militant rules don’t work with creative work.
Cindy
What a delightful article. I taught myself to sew many years ago and did a good job of it but I took a long hiatus and when I started sewing again, I literally had to learn all over again and am still learning. Love your patterns and your articles. I have the upmost respect for anyone who takes the time to draft a pattern. Never learned to do that but there was a time I wanted to badly. Not anymore. I leave that to you and make changes if I can. Thank you.
Denise Youngman
My mom taught me how to sew. Home Ec was just a drudgery, but mom showed me short cuts and tricks that made my projects come along faster. I’m grateful for your lessons, your techniques, your style. I do have a brain and can make my own decisions when I disagree or learned it another way. As Ralph Waldo Emerson said ” A foolish consistency is the hobgoblin of small minds”. Keep up the good work and don’t let the haters get to you.
Robyn Vaughan
This is why I have followed you for years. I have always understood the verbal/physical instructions you use. I’m 58 atm and have had 42 years of sewing all sorts of articles but one thing I’ve learned is that we all have different learning methods, and by listening to others, we may actually hear something useful to us. This is more positive than finding criticism with their methods. BTW, I had the grumpy militant teacher in high school only she was in her thirties. I didn’t start sewing again until I had children.
Tamara Sterling
LOVE this post! I have been sewing over 50 years and most would think that I do not sew correctly. One quick story.. When our high school sewing class was cutting out our first garment, I went into the kitchen section and got a handful of table knives to use to hold my pattern down, because that was what my Momma taught me. I got in trouble.