Hey y’all – today we’re covering another technique that can be used on a lot of sundresses – sewing a lined bodice using the burrito method, which is also sometimes referred to as the hotdog method of sewing a bodice.
This is one of those techniques that makes much more sense when you see it on a video, so I have a video for you below, which you can also watch on YouTube here if it won’t load. Scroll beyond the video for pictures and written directions.
To start, you want your bodice and lining sewn right sides together at the shoulder seams. Press the shoulder seams open, then place the outer bodice right sides together with the bodice lining, matching up the neckline and shoulder seams. Stitch around the neckline.
Clip the curves and any Vs in the neckline, then turn the bodice right sides out and press the neckline.
Next is the “burrito” part of sewing a lined bodice. Lay the bodice flat, then roll the bodice toward one strap. This is the part that it really helps to watch on video, so check that above. Basically you’re trying to roll the bodice small enough that the strap on the other side can be pinned in a tube around it. So the left side of my bodice below gets wrapped with the outer fabric and lining right sides together – they’re the tortilla – and the rest of my bodice rolled into the middle like the burrito filling.
When you’ve got the armscye pinned, it looks like the image above, and you sew on the red line.
Then clip the curves…
And turn the bodice right side out. You can see in the picture above that the strap on the left side is now fully finished, while the right side is not. Now you repeat the process, rolling the left side into a burrito made out of the right side.
When both straps are finished, then you fold the bodice so that the side seams are right sides together, matching the front bodice to the back bodice and the front lining to the back lining. Then sew the side seams, like the red line shown below.
And that’s it! Now you have a fully lined bodice. This technique also works with sleeves if you can sew the sleeves in flat (it won’t work with set in sleeves). Just sew the sleeves to the outer bodice, then roll them into the burrito when you finish the armscyes.