How to Sew an Invisible Zipper

Use this technique to install an invisible zipper without a special foot

Hey y’all – lets talk about how to sew the easiest type of zipper (really!) – an invisible zipper. Below is the video quick version of what we’re going to do.

To start inserting an invisible zipper, the first step is to unzip the zipper and iron the coils flat.

If your zipper is longer than you need, sew a wide, very short stitch length zig-zag over the zipper teeth to create a new zipper stop as shown above.

You may want to finish the edges of the fabric you’re going to seam together before adding the zipper. You can do that with an overlock or faux overlock stitch.

Next, pin one side of the zipper right sides together with the back edge of the seam. In this example, I’m sewing to a dress. You want the zipper coils to be on the seam stitching line.

Stitch, using your regular zipper foot, and getting as close as possible to the teeth. If  the zipper is going over a horizontal seam, then zip your zipper slightly and mark the seam line on it.

Unzip your zipper and apply the other side of the zipper tape right sides together with the other side of the Seam. Make sure to match your seam mark if you need to. Stitch as you did for the first side.

You’re done with the zipper part, but your seam is still not sewn together below the zipper. Zip up the zipper.

Then fold the seam right sides together. The yellow line above shows the zipper stitching line. You need to overlap that stitching by just one or two stitches and then sew from there down to the hem (green line above). Your stitching line will be very slightly to the inside of the zipper stitching line, and it’s important to backstitch over those first couple of stitches.

And you’re done! Zip that zipper and admire it.