It’s day 2 of the jeans sewalong! And today I’m going to be talking about how to topstitch. Yesterday we talked a little about needles and thread, so I won’t go into too much detail, but I will re-iterate – at least a size 90/14 needle and heavy duty thread.
Topstitching seems like it would be a last step with jeans, but it’s actually an early step and also one that happens throughout the jeans sewing process. So I keep my topstitching thread next to my machine and switch as necessary.
The first rule of topstitching is don’t talk about topstitching make sure the needle is down when you stop.
This one rule will save you more crooked stitches than anything. If you have a fancy machine with one of those buttons that will make sure the needle is down when you stop, press it. If you’re on something more basic (like my vintage machine) you’ll have to do this yourself, but trust me – make sure that needle is DOWN. Even if you’re just rearranging the fabric to continue to sew on, you want that needle down.
Similarly, if you must stop and restart a continuous topstitching line, you’re going to want to start by hand placing the needle down in between two stitches. Overlap 4-5 stitches and continue on – it will barely be perceptible that you had to stop and restart.
Which brings me to my next point – Lengthen your stitch
I’ve got two lines sewn here. The only difference between the two is the stitch length. See how the shorter stitches hide in the fibers, while the longer ones rest on top? You want your topstitching to be on top, so go with a longer stitch.
Lastly, use your needle position to get two rows of continuous topstitching next to each other instead of moving your fabric. I align the edge of my fabric with the edge of my foot, stitch once with the needle in the center position, then go back to the beginning, align again, and stitch again, this time with my needle in the right position. I find this keeps my rows more even than trying to align the edge of my fabric to a different mark each time.
Katy
Ooh, thanks for the advice! I’m just working on a project for the first time that requires topstitching, and these tips will keep it looking super neat!
Rena Pearson
I wanted to add that old straight stitch machines do a wonderful topstitch with heavy Jeans Thread. It’s worth the $25 to have an old Singer just for that! My old 404 never complains about multiple layers or tension and the stitches are perfectly straight unlike a machine that also does a zigzag.
Sara
I hadn’t thought of changing the needle position for side by side stitching. I’ll have try that next time. Great tip!
Margaret
I have the same vintage machine as you (singer 503). I have read that when sewing with stretch denim fabric it is better to use the triple stitch so the stitches don’t look like they are loose when the denim is not stretched out. I am planning on tackling jeans this year, and that is one of the things that was concerning me since I do not have a triple stitch. From your pictures it doesn’t look any different, but did your denim have stretch or was it 100% cotton.
Sabra at Sew a Straight Line
Great tips. Your topstitching is so clean!