How to Hem Cut-off Shorts with No Puckering

You can hem a cut-off pair of jeans without puckering with this key tip. Here’s how to make the perfect cut-off shorts hem.

Today I’m going to show you how to take jeans, cut them off, and how to hem cut offs so they look like they were shorts all along! To do this you’ll need sharp scissors, a seam ripper and thread that matches your pants. I used a sewing machine to hem mine, but if you want to sew by hand with a hand needle, you can use a backstitch. If you plan to hand sew a thimble is probably also nice, because pushing the needle through denim can poke your thumb.

Why not just buy a pair of shorts, you ask? Well, there are a couple reasons. First of all, I got the jeans for $3 at my local thrift store. Jeans are more readily available than shorts there. Secondly, I suspect a conspiracy, just like the intimate apparel/swimsuit makers have. I have no problem finding jeans I like, but I have a hard time finding shorts that fit and flatter.

How to Hem Cut Offs and Turn Jeans Into Shorts

I’ve got a video you can watch below or on YouTube here that shows the process for this, or you can scroll below the video to see written instructions and photos.

How to Cut Your Jeans

So, start with a pair of jeans. For this particular style, I chose a looser fitting trouser style pair of jeans.

The looser fit through the thighs is important to make sure these don’t end up with a weird, non-shorts shape.

Try on your pants, and mark a hemline where you want the shorts to end. Take the pants off and mark a hem allowance line 1 1/2 inches below where you want the shorts to end.

In my case, these pants already had a wear line (from being on a hanger?) right where I wanted them to end, so I used my ruler and made another line 1 1/2 inches below the fade line.

You’ll probably notice that your straight line you made on your pant leg when standing now looks angled. That’s OK, go with it. It’s typical for the cutting line to look longer toward the inseams and shorter toward the outseams. Cut one leg on the second line you drew, then fold in half to cut the other leg.

Don’t forget to save those jeans legs to make toddler shorts.

Fold your hems to the inside on your first line, so the width of your folded hem on the leg of the shorts is currently 1 1/2 inches. Next, using your seam ripper, open your side seams up to that folded edge. You’re doing this because almost all jeans are tapered in the thigh (even straight leg jeans) so you have to open the seams so the hems will lie flat.

Now fold the raw edges in toward the legs to form a double fold hem. Now pin the hems, leaving the seams wider apart at the top edge of the hem as needed to lie flat.

Sew Your Hems

Stitch your hem in place. Jeans and denim shorts are usually hemmed with a straight stitch, not a blind hem stitch. This looks best if you find thread that matches the original thread as closely as you can. It also usually helps to lengthen your stitch on your machine to match the topstitching (if any) on the pants. Stitches that are the right length to blend with the rest of the pants won’t look homemade.

Tip: Upholstery thread is often readily available and looks a lot like the thread used to sew most jeans. This pair was easy because they were sewn with navy blue. Also note that your bobbin needs to have the matching thread if you ware sewing with the wrong side of the shorts up because the bobbin thread is what will show.

Finally, to prevent fraying, you can zig-zag stitch the raw seam edges down. Use a thread that matches the fabric if you do this. I outlined my zig-zag stitches below so you can see what I mean.

And then, enjoy your new hem on your shorts – which no one will suspect were once pants.