Hi everyone! It’s Crystal, and today I’ll be sharing with you my menswear inspired Novelista top. (aff link)
I’m constantly picking up my husband’s button up shirts and inspecting the seams. They’re so neat and polished, no visible serged edges, beautiful topstitching…it’s the stuff my sewing dreams are made of! February’s “What’s Underneath” theme seemed like the perfect opportunity to tackle some fancy seam finishes because, really- who doesn’t love a beautifully finished garment, inside and out?
I decided to try my hand at some flat felled seams. I love the inside finish and the detail it adds to the garment. Today I’ll be sharing a simple tutorial for flat felled seams, with no pesky seam allowance alterations at all!
(This tutorial shows the photo steps, and Melissa also has a video for the technique here.)
To start, you’ll need to pin and sew your pieces wrong sides together, just as you would when starting a french seam. You’ll want to make sure you’re using the same color thread in your bobbin. Sew carefully and make sure you’re maintaining a precise 1/2 inch seam allowance.
Next, you’ll want to trim away half of ONE side of your seam allowance, just as you would if you were grading the seam.
Fold the wider side of the seam allowance over the side you just trimmed. Take your time and press well.
Now, fold everything over, completely enclosing the raw edges. Again, press well and use pins to hold everything in place.
Top stitch just along the edge of the fold to secure. Voila! Flat felled seam perfection!
I love the finish, inside and out. So neat and tidy and professional! I used a lightweight cotton oxford I’ve had in my stash for ages. I think something drapey, like crepe or rayon, would make a lovely Novelista blouse, but might be a bit trickier to manage flat felled seams on that. I was able to flat fell the front princess seams, the back seams, the shoulders, and sleeves. The sleeves were a bit tricky to manage and required a lot more time and patience but were totally doable! For the sides I went with a french seam and I have to say, the inside of my shirt looks just as good as the outside!
Find Crystal: Instagram
Get access to my free pattern gallery - sign up for my newsletter!