Welcome to Day 3 of the Coastal Cargos sew along. Today we’re tackling bias tape and outseams. If you’re an overachiever, you can go ahead and put your cargo pockets on. But first, a bias tape tutorial.
I think the bias tape is my favorite detail on this pattern. So I wanted to show you, with the fabric I’m using, how I make my bias tape.
This is much easier than it appears. I usually use a fat quarter of fabric, and from that I can get 4 yards of 1/2″ double fold tape or 8 yards of 1/2″ single fold.
Start by folding your fabric on the bias – this is the same method I was taught to make a square out of a rectangular piece of paper. I always iron my fabric on the fold to mark it. Then, cut along the bias fold.
Match two straight grain edges right sides together like this and sew. I use a 1/4″ seam when I do this.
Press the seam open. Your piece will look like this now, with the seam in the middle and the arrow marking the bias grain.
Using a ruler, mark lines on the bias grain of the fabric on the wrong side. If you are doing double fold tape, your lines should be 4 x the final width apart (ie if you want 1/2″ tape at the end, your lines need to be 1/2″ x 4 = 2″ apart). If you want single fold tape, your lines should be double the width of the final tape width apart (ie if you want 1/2″ single fold tape you do 1/2″ x 2 = 1″ apart).
Fold your fabric, imagining that the spaces are numbered like this on one side. On the other side, imagine the numbers start with 1 instead of 0. You’ll match the edges, so you’re pinning the #1 space on one edge to the #1 space on the other side. The arrow shows where the #4’s would line up. Stitch this seam with a 1/4″ seam allowance, and press open.
Your sewn tube will look like this – one each side is offset a little.
Now start cutting on your lines. I use scissors and go slowly. You could try a rotary cutter, just be careful not to cut through the bottom layer.
Continue cutting until you have a pile of unfolded bias tape.
Now, you could use a cardboard bias tape rig like I made in this post, but I prefer to use these Clover Bias Tape Maker tips. You feed the bias tape through and then iron as you pull the tip away from the iron.
When you’re done ironing (which goes by pretty fast) you get tape that looks like this (outside on top, wrong side on bottom).
I save the little cardboards from my store bought bias tape and wrap the handmade tape on them.
All purty and ready to sew the side seams of the pants.
See you tomorrow, when (if the boys can keep from screaming) I’m going to try to shoot a video of me sewing the inseams on the pants with the bias tape.
Monday: Fabric Selection and Preparation
Tuesday: Zip fly & welt pockets
Thursday – Cargo pockets and inseams (and maybe a video if I get a chance!)
Friday – Waistband and finishing