How to Sew a Rolled Hem

How to Sew a Rolled Hem - Melly Sews #sewing

We’re at the end of the Amaryllis Dress sewalong – and today we’re tackling how to sew a rolled hem. The hemming method in the pattern is basted and turned, and the final step lends itself well to a machine blind hem, if you prefer the stitches be less visible. But if you want to hem faster, you might be more interested in a rolled hem.

I’ve used contrasting thread on these samples so you can see the stitching, but if you do this on your real dress, you’d want to use matching thread.

The first method uses a regular sewing machine and a regular foot. Set your machine to the widest zig-zag it will do, and a very short stitch length.

Settings for rolled hem on a regular sewing machine

Press your edge 1/8″ to the wrong side all around. Hand crank the flywheel on the machine until the needle is down in the far right position. Place the folded edge of the fabric agains the needle and lower the foot.

With a regular foot, line fabric fold up to needle

Stitch over the edge, with one side of the zig-zag landing over the edge. This will wrap the edge of the fabric in thread and create a rolled hem, which looks like this.

Rolled Hem with a Regular Machine Foot

Alternately, if you have a hemming foot, set your machine with the same type of zig-zag, but skip the pressing. Instead just feed the fabric through the foot and let it do the rolling for you as you stitch.

Rolled Hem with a Hem Foot - Melly Sews

This results in a slightly tighter roll than I was able to do without the foot.

Rolled Hem with a Hem foot

For the tightest and fastest hem though, nothing beats the rolled hem a serger can achieve. For this one I followed the instructions in my manual for my Brother 1034D.

Rolled Hem with a Serger

For comparison, here are the 3 hems side by side.

Comparison of Rolled Hem Methods

So pick your hemming poison, and hem that dress because once you do, you’re done! And that means a special girly will get to twirl around in her new Amaryllis Dress.

If you sewed along this week, make sure to post pictures of your finished dress in our Facebook group.

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  1. says

    I have the rolled hem foot but use a regular straight stitch in regular length and it creates a beautiful baby hem, but yes it does takes some practice to feed the fabric just right. My favourite way to create a hem on a curved hem (or straight) is to create my own single fold bias binding in Liberty of London tana lawn, it’s easy to navigate the curve when you line up the edges right sides together and sew on the closest fold, fold up on the sewing line (a millimetre over so it’s not seen from the front), iron and sew again, I love to see the occasional beautiful flash of Liberty!

  2. says

    Thank-you!!! I finished my dress a few nights after the Pattern Anthology release however I am still neglecting the hemming of it. I made the dress a little to big that it will be a long while before my daughter wears it but I think that the rolled hem might end my procrastination’s on this project at least. I hate hemming especially with non cotton fabrics, and all that pressing takes too long but I have a rolled hem foot. Yay!!!

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